One morning in Pakse we discovered that the brake pedal is on the floor. Broken tube (probably from bad ferry embarkation) has drained most of the liquid. Mechanic soldered it swiftly. In 2 km the pedal is on the floor again. Of course, we're going to handle a complaint (this is possible even here in Asia), and mechanic finds a problem in the brake pump. After the repair, we head again to the Bolaven Plateau. In another 20-kilometer drive uphill, the pedal is back on the floor. You can't imagine what joy gave me the idea of driving back, downhill, with a half-working brake. Prior to every braking, you need to jump several times on the pedal and then it almost stops. This time the vent valve is the culprit. The guy is probably making it, but thanks to him we have a revised braking system. After two days entire brake with which he fiddled dropped. Loose bolts. Well, sometimes you're lucky to meet a pro.
In Laos, ATMs surprised us a little. Every town has lots of them, but only two are willing to give us money. The maximum withdrawal amount is 1,000,000 and they charge 20,000 kips for that. That amount is terribly low - circa 125USD for which you pay 2,5 USD. The more millions we have, the poorer we are. All the time we didn't understand why it was so expensive when finally it descended on us. This is not an ATM but a cash printer. The banknotes are crisp new and come in sequence. They just do not print them too fast.
Local cuisine has a culinary specialty. All soups are served together with a basket of green leaves. Predominantly assorted herbs with a lot of mint. An interesting thing which freshens up the menu. But not only that. The Laotians seem to have solved the problem as old as humanity. I have unpleasant pressure in my bowels, but there is a lot of people everywhere. As is common in Asia, there is nowhere to be alone for a moment. I relieve my tensed muscles and behold! fresh scent of mint. The toilets don't have any air fresheners and, as you can smell, there is no need. Moreover even the streets seem to be scented. You just mustn't meet anybody who doesn't like soups.
During our trip to the Bolavean Plateau, which is home to coffee plantations, we wanted make a shortcut by a dirt road between coffee trees. Plateau has its own climate and so it rains almost every day. As soon as we enter the plantations drizzle starts. On tuktuk we have solved dust filter by attaching it to the hose and leading it out of the engine area because there was no room for it where there was not much room, and it and the place is so dusty that we would have to clean or exchange the filter too often. At the first deeper puddle it turned out that toucan became amphibian. He slipped into the depths and the only sound was gurgling of exhaust pipe. After a while the rain became downpour. Streams of red water form on the road and all the holes disappear. We carefully navigate through all the places and observe the new river with professionalism of canoeist so we don't sink. 30 km long drive turns into an incredibly long journey into the unknown..
In Laos, for the first time in Asia, people refused to feed us. Hungry, we came to the city and immediately invaded first dinner room in reach. They said no. Well, they probably don't cook anymore, it's a bit late. Another dining room with lots of guests. No. What's happening? I wear the my boxers just a week, shoes are freshly washed in the puddle, it's not about the smell then. We speak Laotian as a born speakers, well freshly born, maybe the catch is in this. After the fifth rejection, we adopt new strategy. Immediately after arriving at the pub we enter the kitchen cheekily. Over there we just point out what we want to eat then sit outside unwilling to move until we are served. For first they try to get rid of us by giving us some nasty sauce but we persevere. Eventually it works! We got only meat without a side dish. Nevermind, for once, we can live without rice :-)